What Are The Origins Of Ragu? A Historical Deep Dive...

Few dishes comfort the soul quite like a rich, steaming bowl of pasta tossed with a deeply savoury ragù. It is the absolute cornerstone of Sunday family dinners across Italy—a meal that requires hours of gentle simmering to fill the entire home with its unmistakable, mouth-watering aroma.

Yet, if you were to travel back in time and order a ragù, you would be served something unrecognisable to modern diners. The true history of this legendary sauce is a fascinating tale of royal French kitchens, aristocratic reinvention, and a complete absence of tomatoes.

Grab a fork as Carluccio's takes a historical deep dive into the true origins of Italy’s most famous culinary export.

1. The French Connection: The "Ragoût"

Despite its status as the definitive Italian comfort food, the linguistic and conceptual blueprint for ragù actually belongs to France.

The word derives from the French verb ragoûter, which translates beautifully to "to revive the appetite" or "to stimulate the taste." In the 17th and 18th centuries, a French ragoût referred to a rustic, slow-simmered stew of meat, poultry, or vegetables cooked in its own juices.

So how did a French stew cross the Alps? It arrived via Louis XVI’s court. High society kitchens in regions like Emilia-Romagna and Naples began hiring French chefs, bringing aristocratic culinary trends into wealthy Italian households.

2. The Italian Transformation: Dropping the Stewing Pot

It wasn't long before Italian cooks took this slow-simmering technique and made it entirely their own. The landmark moment came in the late 18th century, courtesy of Alberto Alvisi, the chef to the Bishop of Imola.

In 1790, Alvisi created the first officially recorded "ragù" served explicitly as a sauce for pasta, rather than an independent stew. His historic recipe involved finely chopping beef (and occasionally veal or pork), sautéing it with a classic soffritto of lard, onions, celery, and carrots, and slowly braising it with a splash of broth.

Crucially, this early masterpiece contained absolutely no tomatoes. Tomatoes, which had crossed over from the Americas, were still largely viewed with suspicion across Europe and had not yet integrated into northern Italian cooking.

3. The Great Regional Divide

As the recipe spread across Italy’s unified regions throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, ragù fractured into distinct, fiercely protected regional identities. The two heavyweights of the ragù world emerged with completely different philosophies.

The Rise of Ragù alla Bolognese
1891

Pellegrino Artusi publishes the definitive recipe for the Bologna style in his legendary cookbook. It prioritises finely minced or chopped beef and pork, slow-braised with wine, broth, and a splash of milk or cream at the end to tenderise the meat and cut the acidity. It uses minimal tomato and is strictly paired with wide egg pastas like tagliatelle or layered into lasagne.

The Evolution of Ragù Napoletano
Early 20th Century

In the south, Naples creates a completely different beast. Rather than minced meat, Ragù Napoletano uses whole, large cuts of beef and pork. It is simmered for up to eight hours in an abundance of local tomatoes until the meat is incredibly tender. The meat is then removed and served as a separate main course (secondo), while the intensely concentrated, glossy red sauce is used to dress sturdy durum wheat pasta shapes like rigatoni.

Bringing Historic Depth to Your Table

At Carluccio’s, we honour this slow, meticulous approach to craft. A true ragù cannot be rushed by industrial shortcuts; it requires the natural melting down of collagen and fat over a low flame to achieve that velvety, glossy texture that perfectly coats every strand of pasta.

Ragu Cinghiale

If you want to experience the deep, wild, and rustic flavours of Italy’s traditional hunting heritage without spending eight hours at the stove, our online deli features exceptional, small-batch pantry sauces. Try our rich, deeply savoury Wild Boar Ragù, or our robust Venison Ragù—each slow-simmered with regional red wines and aromatic herbs. Pair them with our bronze-die extruded pasta, top with a generous snow of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and enjoy a genuine taste of Italian history.

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